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Wow, what a busy couple of months it’s been here in paradise while we’ve been head’s down, trying to get everything set for your next adventure.

So busy in fact, that I’ve barely had a moment to plan my own! I moved here almost two months ago, and I still haven’t been outside, what a sin.

Fortunately, though, I found a window this last weekend and managed to flee to the hills to check out the new back yard, and what an amazing place it is! I set my eyes on an old target of mine, Heather Jock hut, which I found out after I returned, is named after my house – mate’s grandparents!

I had heard so much about this little gem above the head of Lake Whakatipu from countless friends that have been up and stayed proclaiming it to be one of the best huts they’d stayed in. “Oh, it’s so cute” they’d say, “oh, you’d love it”, so I added it to my list… six years ago… Wow, I wish it didn’t take me that long to do it!

Anyway, let’s begin.

So, it was lunch time, and a beautiful sunny day in Glenorchy, calm blue skies overhead, and calm blue waters lapping against the edge of the lake, with only a hint of cloud looming over the snowcapped peaks to the north.

I set off from the car park in the Whakaari conservation area, up the first part of the trail (which is part of our AIP getaways). It’s a very well-formed track fit enough for an urban 4wd. I made pretty good pace heading up and was very quickly rewarded with stellar views as the Whakatipu basin opened up below me.

I pass a sign that says give way to horses... Horses?

I really am in the Glenorchy hillsides...

Despite the signage, I did not have to yield to any rogue equestrians galavanting around. But there were an incredible number of goats! We would take turns at startling each other; I would come round a corner to unsuspecting grass munchers, and they would flee at the sight of me, and occasionally they would startle me from the bushes with their eerie, old lady-like wails... it was a fun dynamic.

A short way into my journey I discovered the old Scheelite battery.

Time has warped this once great machine, but it was incredible to see a relic of the history of life in the hills from these early projects – and the foundations of what life in the Glenorchy community was all about.

It was amazing picturing the solitary lives these people lived – living in their small huts on the hillside. Granted they had one of the best views in the world, but it would have been a hard, isolated life for some of them – lugging wood and supplies up the hill to survive the harsh, cold winters, and even the summer heat.

I found myself wondering what one of these guys might have done with his spare time in the evening once he was home, sitting in the hut alone by the fire. Did he read, he surely talked to himself, or did he just sleep – working his ass off every day he just needed rest by the end of it. Did he drink on his own, with a friend, did he have a horse, a goat?? There’s an almost beautiful sadness to it all pondering the lives of these guys, separated my only 100 years or so, but our lives are so vastly different – if only he had Netflix eh.

Anyway, after a few moments of reflection, I set my eyes to the horizon again, clambering further up the old track passing through the last section of beech forest before the steepest part of the climb. It was a tough little grunt to get up the last section, and a bit slushy because of the recent snow – there were still a couple of small patches I slid across, but I made it, and what a view! The Hut itself is perched on a ledge overlooking the buckler burn below, The Dart river beyond, all the way to the Humboldt range and the entrance to the Routeburn track, where I spy some looming storm clouds…

I went inside the hut and had a quick peruse through the visitor’s book and found a few names I recognised, but more so, I did it to read comments from after lockdown. I’ve really enjoyed reading through people’s post lockdown notations from different huts recently – and seeing people’s perspectives and the real value of being outdoors again after such a strange time we all shared.

I continued my investigation of the hut, checking out the beds, the odd bits and pieces left behind over the years, opening cupboards… which I immediately regretted…

I opened the old meat cooler, a kind of cupboard set externally with a mesh lining to keep the produce outside and cool, but without flies and other pests able to get to it. Unfortunately, it was not empty… I found a small bottle of milk in there… From a MONTH ago…

It was bloated and warm, an absolute grenade, ready to go off at any moment – and I knew I couldn’t leave it there. So, after a quick rest and a snack, I bravely loaded up the volatile cargo into the side of my pack and set out the door.

It was significantly colder outside now, than when I arrived. The clouds were closing in, and the wind had really picked up. I put on 2 extra layers to break the wind and keep me warm, but it was getting very cold, and there was definitely a system rolling through, so I picked up the pace for the journey down, no distractions, no pictures, no trying to pat the goats, away I went.

At one point I start jogging down the hill, distracted by the incredible cloud formations starting to occur and trying to get down before they start raining on me.

Then I remember the dangerous goods I’m burdened with! So immediately I slow down to a gentle, yet swift canter. I made it back down safe, just before the rain set in, to sit and reflect on the day, and what did I learn…? 

Firstly, always pack warm extras – the weather can change unexpectedly and it gets cold, very fast.

History is fun, but I’m glad I’m here, now, and not living the life of those pioneers, as much as I respect them, I’m ok with the comforts of the 21st century.

Leave only footprints – we should all strive to minimise the impacts of our exploration, don’t forget the milk, or else some other poor sod has to take it out for you.

And finally, goats sound like people, which is very off putting when you’re alone in the hills.

Anyway, I hope you enjoyed reading about the adventure I had out here, I’ll definitely be going back up there to spend a night and have a decent look around. I hope this post gets you excited to get here yourself, I need some people here to go walking with to share this incredible place!

See you here soon!

- Shaun Shallish (Head Guide)

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